6ix
Posts:485
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| 05/29/2014 01:01 PM |
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When out of the saddle, I have a very audible 'tick tick tick" during every pedal revolution. Think it's mostly happening when pushing the drive-side crank down, which is my dominant leg. However, when pushing HARD on the pedal while standing next to the bike, I can't replicate the sound. The frame is flexing side to side like crazy but everything is quiet.
I've used teflon tape on the pedal threads and BB cups, regreased the chainring bolts and properly torqued everything to spec. It's DA 7900 on a Blue AC1. Using FSA BB30 adapters. All the bearings are perfectly smooth.
Any ideas? I've been told the frame will be destroyed if I even try removing the adapters and that may not even be the problem. At my wit's end on this one. |
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79pmooney
Posts:3180
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| 05/29/2014 01:51 PM |
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Check the quick releases. Then go from there to the BB looking at everything. Look for cracks in the frame and cranks. BBs attract sounds like honey attracts bears. Try changing wheels.
I am pretty sure that sometimes those sounds are just there to test our sanity.
Ben |
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ChinookPass
Posts:809
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| 05/29/2014 02:00 PM |
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What are those adapters for?
Is this a new sound? How are the pedals? How's the front der. cable? |
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6ix
Posts:485
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| 05/29/2014 02:35 PM |
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The adapters are stupid. Shimano doesn't make BB30 bottom-brackets so you have to epoxy in some aluminum adapter sleeves. Pedals feel fine. They are smooth but they do slightly move up and down on the spindles. No front-derailleur cable as it's Di2.
I just rebuilt the entire bike from scratch last weekend to fix this issue. And...it seemed to for the first ride but then the sound returned.
I've swapped out the wheels from the Mavic Cosmic C40's back to the Ksyrium SLR's for a test ride this afternoon. Perhaps that's what's going on. Mavic's quick-releases have never been super popular. |
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Master50
Posts:340
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| 05/29/2014 09:01 PM |
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One time it was pedal hole in a crank arm. Needed a thread chaser. 1 time it was a wheel magnet. one time it was a BB locking came loose. 1 time it went on for 2 rides and stopped? 1 time it was actually an imminent flat tire. Actually that last 1 happened at the same time as the pedal thread issue so I ignored the click click for too long to get the thing out of the tire.
The pedal hole in the crank arm was very frustrating to isolate as It should not have stopped each time I took the crank arm off to repack the BB bearings again. I only was sure it was something related to the cranks. I ran a 9/16th tap set I bought to fix a cross threaded pedal hole and the click stopped. |
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Oldfart
Posts:511
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| 05/29/2014 09:18 PM |
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I just went through that with my hard tail. Sounded like a squeaky shoe and started in Moab. Super dry there so I assumed I just needed to clean and lubricate things. I disassembled, cleaned and lubricated, bb, spider and chairing on the SRAM XX1 crank, pedals, clutch mech in the derailleur, hanger, pulled the cassette and cleaned and relubed threads, bar stem steer tube and headset. No change. Tried a different wheel and pedals. No change. Different shoes. No change. Removed the crank boots, no change. Then I discovered it was only the drive side by pedalling with one leg at a time. I have a Chris King bb which uses spacers to adjust bearing pre load so I played wth that. No change. Then I tried the cranks from my other bike. Silence. After a close examination I see what might be a crack in the pedal end of the carbon crank. I always had boots on the cranks so I doubt that it is a scratch from riding but it is hard to tell what it is. Shop thinks it will be warranted but that remains to be seen. So ther you go. A list of things to try. I also could not replicate the creak by pushing the crank sideways with my foot. Only riding did it.
On the bright side, I used this as an excuse to put Race Face Next SL cranks on. |
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Cosmic Kid
Posts:4209
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| 05/30/2014 12:11 AM |
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Check your stem bolts....seriously. Both for the face plate and the binder bolts.
+1 to checking the QR's as well. Grease 'em up real good.
The annoying thing about ticks like this is that you are SURE it is coming from the BB when it often is coming from someplace completely different. |
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| Just say "NO!" to WCP!!!!
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Oldfart
Posts:511
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| 05/30/2014 12:52 AM |
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| Oh I once had a squeak that led sequentially to a complete overhaul over a week or two. Go over a bump and I would hear a squeak. Then one evening I shake the bottle of salad dressing and it squeaks! Frickin' watch band. |
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Pin0Q0
Posts:229
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| 05/30/2014 07:18 AM |
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| Also try putting a drop of oil on every spoke nipple and hub of the rear wheel, (or spray them them with silicone lube) put a dab of grease on the threads and re-seat and tighten your crank bolts, and your pedals, if not done so, assuming you have though since it was just re-built. But I have a feeling it may be the spokes. Happens after several wet rides. |
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6ix
Posts:485
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| 05/30/2014 07:55 AM |
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Thanks for all the suggestions and horror stories! I swapped back over to the Ksyrium SLR and did a test-run around my neighborhood. Silence...I think. Granted it was a short ride but it is promising. I'm going to try using an older Dura-Ace QR skewer because the Mavic QR's might be problematic.
Interesting that it could be the spokes. I've been using the Mavic Cosmic C40's (the carbon-clincher) for a few weeks so perhaps the nipples and rim are beginning to settle, thus causing the tick.
I'll find out today. If the tick continues, keep a look out for an Ac1 with Di2 sitting in a dumpster behind Lowe's in Asheville. |
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smokey52
Posts:493
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| 05/30/2014 07:11 PM |
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| I had a click-click that I eventually traced to the saddle rails. Since you said it happened when off the seat, I did not chime in, but it may contribute to the list for others to evaluate. |
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Dale
Posts:1767
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| 05/30/2014 08:06 PM |
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Posted By 6ix on 05/30/2014 07:55 AM
If the tick continues, keep a look out for an Ac1 with Di2 sitting in a dumpster behind Lowe's in Asheville.
Will that be the Lowe's on Tunnel Road or the one on Smokey Park Highway?
…just checking…  |
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Orange Crush
Posts:4499
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| 05/30/2014 08:30 PM |
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Could be your knees too :-)
Ticks are annoying but I can dig squeeks that indicate you're putting power on |
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dvs cycles
Posts:11
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| 05/30/2014 08:30 PM |
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I've seen annoying ticks and creaks both front and rear go away by just taking out the skewer, cleaning it and putting a coat of grease on them.
First place I look if it's a new noise I have not heard before. |
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Dale
Posts:1767
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| 05/30/2014 08:49 PM |
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| I had an annoying tick that gave me Ehrlichiosis. Took most of two months on antibiotics to get rid of that. Have you taken your bike to get a white blood cell count lately? |
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6ix
Posts:485
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| 06/01/2014 12:46 PM |
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Success!! The tick is gone. The solution was replacing the Mavic skewers with some American Classic ones. Think they just bite into the dropouts a little better. What part of the skewers should be greased on occassion? The axle, lever arm pivot? Little confused.
For now, the Blue is safe and will not be thrown in a dumpster. Thanks again for all the help! |
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jmdirt
Posts:775
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| 06/01/2014 02:09 PM |
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Glad you found the issue! Just a few other spots that can cause "ticks": seat post clamp-I chased a tick for a month, cleaning, lubing, and torquing everything on the bike, changing parts, etc. By chance, I noticed that the clear coat had "rolled up" under the seat post clamp. I wet sanded it and the tick was gone. The other one that eluded me for a long time was a loose head set. It wasn't enough to notice when I did the wiggle test, but a guy I ride with insisted that it could be the problem so I tightened it ever so slightly and tick gone.
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dvs cycles
Posts:11
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| 06/01/2014 08:30 PM |
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Posted By Evan Solida on 06/01/2014 12:46 PM
Success!! The tick is gone. The solution was replacing the Mavic skewers with some American Classic ones. Think they just bite into the dropouts a little better. What part of the skewers should be greased on occassion? The axle, lever arm pivot? Little confused.
For now, the Blue is safe and will not be thrown in a dumpster. Thanks again for all the help! I just put a thin coat between my fingers and rub the part of the skewer that goes inside the hubs axle.
Shaft if you want to use that term in this instance.
Make sure all is clean before greasing.
Don't know why this works but it does.
I'm guessing build up of minute dirt particles.
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Jimmy
Posts:33
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| 06/01/2014 10:02 PM |
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Glad it's gone. I had an AC-1 and I had problems with the BB ticking. I could get it under control with lube / grease, but it would inevitably return after few rides.
I assume you intentionally or inadvertently greased the contact point between the skewer and the fork tips, yes? I had this problem on one of the white USPS Treks back around 2001 or so. Drove me nuts. In the end, it wasn't the skewer, it was the skewer and fork dropout interface. Once greased, the problem was gone for good. |
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