Converting S-Works 29er to gravel bike...
Last Post 12/13/2020 08:08 PM by Frederick Jones. 38 Replies.
Author Messages
huckleberry

Posts:824

--
11/09/2020 06:37 PM
Been driving myself crazy. I have a 2012 S-Works Hardtail 29er - it's a lightweight missile. I don't do much technical riding anymore and would like a gravel bike, but that is not in the cards. Thinking of switching out to a rigid Ritchey WCS carbon fork and putting narrower gravel tires on, but the real sticking point is I would love drop bars, but so far all of my options for drop bars require getting a new gruppo, which is just too much expense. The present components are very nice and in great condition SRAM XX. If only SRAM would make a 31.8 clamp for the bar levels - a $14 part, I would be set, but alas they don't - or not that I could find in my intensive search. Nor are there flared drops with a 31.8 stem clamp area and a 22.2 brake lever surface. I have found a pair of flat, flaired bars that are very cool - Koga Denham bars, but they are hard to find and am not sure I want to go with flat. Is there something I am not thinking of to give me the ability to maintain my groupset and get drop bars? I have seen that Pauls has manufactured a part to attach your rear shifter, but that is useless when I still have to accommodate the front shifter and brakes. Thanks in advance for your help. Chris
longslowdistance

Posts:2881

--
11/09/2020 09:17 PM
Looks like you are way ahead of me, and correct me if I'm wrong, which I probably am: SRAM nailed this Goldilocks years ago, allowing their road shifters to work with their mtb drivetrains. Shimano dropped the ball on that issue.
I've been pounding a SRAM 10 speed 2x10 XO drivetrain with drop bars and their brifters with carbon levers for thousands of miles of gravel (sorry don't recollect their exact brifter model, but doubt that's an issue) and I just can't wear it out. Of course I keep the chain and cassettes fresh. Maybe because I sealed all shifters and mechanical brake cables with full length housing?
Just probably jinxed my entire ride with this post, but up to now it's been a pleasure not thinking about breakdowns. Toyota meets Range Rover.
Orange Crush

Posts:4499

--
11/09/2020 09:27 PM
Not helpful to your query but keen them gravel tires wide.

Really liking my beefy WTB Resolutes.
longslowdistance

Posts:2881

--
11/09/2020 10:23 PM
Yes on that. Fat and softish is more pleasant to ride AND faster. Who cares if it's heavier, unless the ride is only a steep uphill TT on pavement.
6ix

Posts:485

--
11/10/2020 11:03 AM
I wrestled with doing the same thing with my Scott carbon Scale 29'er. While on paper it seems like the easiest solution is to switch to a rigid fork and drop bars, what you may be forgetting is the geometry is going to be very different and not ideal for drop bars. You see, you'll be reaching REALLY far forward relative to what the bike is designed for. Steering will be strange and probably very, very slow. Not necessarily a bad thing but something to consider.

I suggest just adding some of those RideFar aerobar things and maybe some bar-ends. And just stick with what you have. maybe the rigid fork.
huckleberry

Posts:824

--
11/10/2020 11:12 AM
Thanks, guys.

6ix - I was in between sizes when I bought the bike(used) and opted in buying a smaller size(19). The reach is exactly what my road bikes are from tip of saddle to center of bar, as is my setback from the BB. I am not too worried about the change reach because of that - the steering may be another issue. Another bonus of the smaller size is that I have quite a bit of flexy carbon seatpost sticking out for a tad bit of dampening.

My present though is to go with the Koga Denham bar or lay out something similar to that with inward bar ends 40-42 cm apart to mimic my hood position.

I may have to give up the drops, but from what I've been reading and thinking of where I spend most of my hand position time, that this configuration may work best for me. We'll see. I'm going to experiment a little bit today with mock positions.
huckleberry

Posts:824

--
11/10/2020 11:15 AM
I would like to try something in the 700x45 range, but I will have the 2.25's to go back to if desired. Also have another set of wheels so that I can go both directions.

I already have an Ibis Hakkalugi - that I love - and am able to get 38's on it. It is my go to bike. I just thought that I would try and make the Specialized into something that can handle tougher terrain than the Ibis and in more comfort - but as fast as possible ; )
Orange Crush

Posts:4499

--
11/10/2020 11:27 AM
700x45 is good target.

The Resolutes on the Search are 42s that measure as 45s for the rough stuff. You’d only need wider if you need extra traction like when it’s super sandy.

For a mix road graveller something in 32 to 38 range.

Cosmic Kid

Posts:4209

--
11/10/2020 12:03 PM
What if you went with something like the old-school moustache bars? COuld still run MTB brake levers...not certain if there is a 31.8 stem diameter version, though.
Just say "NO!" to WCP!!!!
huckleberry

Posts:824

--
11/10/2020 12:03 PM
Those Resolutes have been at the top of my list - glad to get your recommendation. Will definitely go that direction.

As the hoods on my drop bar bikes seem to be my main position, I am trying to justify that if I buy short inner bar ends(like short bull horns inward of your grip) separated by 40 to 44 cm, I can mimic that hoods position and have the outer grips for better control on the descents, and more hand positions overall than the standard flat bar.

Am I just trying to rationalize away my desire for drop bars ; ) More so, the cost of the transition.
Cosmic Kid

Posts:4209

--
11/10/2020 12:05 PM
26.0 clamp area....but you could also just run that size stem.

https://www.citygrounds.com/products/origin8-tiki-bar-handlebar?variant=31358689214575&CAWELAID=120088260000058000&CATARGETID=120088260000067009&CADevice=c&gclid=CjwKCAiAkan9BRAqEiwAP9X6UTr48sazRXgDg9dRov3gKjJo1Nag0Wr_pe5fL9RIaB_cmzlywU4kuxoCKswQAvD_BwE
Just say "NO!" to WCP!!!!
huckleberry

Posts:824

--
11/10/2020 12:06 PM
I need to learn more about this - read reviews, etc., but it may be a great product for me if I go to a rigid fork...

https://redshiftsports.com/products/shockstop-suspension-stem
huckleberry

Posts:824

--
11/10/2020 12:24 PM
CK - I just don't see a good mix of comfortable/familiar hand positions and lever mount positions on that type of bar to make it work for me. Granted, I have never used a bar like that and may be ignorant of it's positives.
Orange Crush

Posts:4499

--
11/10/2020 01:01 PM
Like yourself I ride mostly on the hoods so yes replicating that position would be key. Mini bar ends could do the trick, they work great on my flatbar commuter. I rarely take my commuter out on super long rides but when I do I notice that my upper back and arms get strained from the wide grip. So relatively narrow flat bars, similar to width of drop bars would also seem key.

When I am on technical or steep stuff with my gravel bike, I often think flat bars would create greater control so I am curious whether the setup you are contemplating actually works.
huckleberry

Posts:824

--
11/10/2020 01:05 PM
OC - look up that Koga Denham bar. I may end up with that, but at first I am going to try and replicate the aspects of it that I like the most before I decide, and spend the money.

The thing I most like is the inner placed bar ends - they are spaced 40cm apart on the Koga, I may go a little wider on my mock-up as I'm a bigger guy, and I like the outer space for grips - to have that control on the descents - just not sure if I like how much they flare back.
Cosmic Kid

Posts:4209

--
11/10/2020 01:24 PM
inner placed bar ends


Yeah, I was gonna suggest that as another option....i'm pretty sure there are a number of aftermarket options that you can use if you can't find the Koga
Just say "NO!" to WCP!!!!
Orange Crush

Posts:4499

--
11/10/2020 01:31 PM
Interesting bars. The first thing that comes to mind when I see images is width of overall bars and how much undergrowth I often come in contact with on some of the trails here. It is particularly bad when you ride through former clearcuts. We had one ride that has a 10 km steep descent through a former clearcut area with the entire section spent having green stuff whip your face and trying to grab your bike. Having wide bars on that trail would have been very interesting. Of course with hands on flat bars one would likely have been able to resist the resistance of all that green stuff.

The flare back would be pretty useless on a gravel bike, I can't see putting my hands there at any point in time. That kind of handlebar shape is good for upright bikes (dutch bikes), nothing else I would think. On my gravel bike I use hoods mostly and then the top bar for some climbing. Having some space there to put your hands (if that's a preferred position) would also be important. A lot of the burrito handlebar bags that people use for gravel biking tend to get in way of that position.

huckleberry

Posts:824

--
11/10/2020 02:18 PM
My present flat bars are 70cm, the Koga is only 1 cm wider. Although I would like to be about 60, but not sure if I can accomplish what I want with that width - levers, inner placed bar ends, grips...

I can't decide wether I want a stubby type bar end or a six-inch. These stubbies are interesting - SQlab 411 Bicycle Innerbarends, and I think I would like to try these grips - Ergon GC1 BioKork Grips.
Cosmic Kid

Posts:4209

--
11/10/2020 02:40 PM
width of overall bars


I don't know what I hate more....the trend of super-wide bars or the trend in the late 90's / early 00's to rider bars.

There was nothing wrong with "normal" width flat bars with bar ends....offered the most hand positions. I can't even ride current width MTB bars. Extremely uncomfortable.
Just say "NO!" to WCP!!!!
longslowdistance

Posts:2881

--
11/10/2020 07:00 PM
Salsa cowbell handlebars have worked well for me on my gravel bike - a bit of flare but not ridiculous, good width, shallow drop, and I can use brifters and ride on the hoods. https://salsacycles.com/components/category/road_handlebars/cowbell
huckleberry

Posts:824

--
11/10/2020 07:40 PM
LSD - I would love to be able to use a drop bar, especially the Salsa Cowchipper, but that would mean that I would have to find a bar that will accept my 22.2 clamp for my MTB trigger shifters, otherwise I have to spend a good amount of money to replace my components into a road/gravel gruppo, and I can't afford that. Trying to keep it simple.

longslowdistance

Posts:2881

--
11/10/2020 09:15 PM
Yes, I get that. Trigger shifters and mtb brake levers on flattish bars vs. road brifters on drop or dropish bars. Glad we have freedom of choice.
I may be behind, but SRAM gets that too, and long has. So thanks to SRAM i've been rocking Rival road shifters with mtb gearing for 6 or more years, which shimano simply did not allow. With the wireless stuff out now, big S might have caught up with SRAM, at a price.
huckleberry

Posts:824

--
11/10/2020 10:37 PM
I realize they work together, but that doesn't pay for the new brifters that also operate hydraulic brakes for the 20 speed XX ; ) As they have moved to the 22 speed. I've tried to find the older 10 speed shifters on ebay, but haven't had any luck so far.

It still means replacing the majority of the gruppo, and if one is doing that, why not go for the whole group.
huckleberry

Posts:824

--
11/16/2020 04:23 PM
Holy Moly!

In theory, as the new fork and tires have not arrived, I will be knocking 4.85 lbs off of an already very light hardtail.

Swapping a 29er Rock Shox Reba XX fork(1700 grams), for an older Niner rigid(500 grams) a 1200 gram reduction. Plus swapping out my 2.3 and 2.25 WTB's - mixed pair(2000 grams/pair) for Panaracer SK's 43mm(1000 grams/pair) - a 1000 gram difference.

If my math is correct, that is a 2200 gram difference - which I believe is 4.85 pounds.

I'm keeping the flat bar and have already got new small nubs mounted that somewhat act as my hoods position and have new bar grips coming. My position will be slightly altered as I will be dropping the front end - the bars, not the frame by 1.5 cm(because of the shorter fork steerer) but I did a two hour ride today in that mocked up position and felt quite good - it is nowhere near how far my drop is on my road bikes, so no big surprise.

Should have it all together in two weeks and I'll post some pics on my Instagram page.

Very excited...
Cosmic Kid

Posts:4209

--
11/16/2020 09:06 PM
Looking forward to the pics!!!
Just say "NO!" to WCP!!!!
huckleberry

Posts:824

--
12/04/2020 05:23 PM
Just posted a few pics of my new build on my Instagram page, which I believe is accessible to anyone...

https://www.instagram.com/harold_y_maude/

Did my first ride today. Better than I had hoped. Quite happy.
Orange Crush

Posts:4499

--
12/04/2020 07:52 PM
Good looking setup. Nice photo wall. Almost as good as Robert Gesinks but not quite.

I’m on there as Tales of Brave Ulysses (Exploring the Cream of BC gravel). Mostly just a page for myself. I’m sure a few will be getting the musical reference.

longslowdistance

Posts:2881

--
12/04/2020 08:22 PM
Like that reference. Hope you have followed Ginger's career after Cream. He's no showboat and is the real deal.
No offense to the other two, successful careers all around.
Orange Crush

Posts:4499

--
12/04/2020 08:48 PM
I haven’t no. Neither with the other two beyond some of the original supergroup collaborations.
Cosmic Kid

Posts:4209

--
12/05/2020 10:48 AM
That looks awesome....bet it is a blast to ride!
Just say "NO!" to WCP!!!!
huckleberry

Posts:824

--
12/05/2020 01:06 PM
CK -

It is really fun. Must admit that I was perhaps a bit tentative on the descent at first, given no shock and that I had a difficult time seating the new tubeless tires - afraid that I might get a nice air-draining burp, but they did great. will actually feel more confident next time in going with a bit less pressure in them.

I though my stem might be too long, but it never factored in. I lost a centimeter and a half in front height as the replacement fork was a bit shorter from what I had the Rock Shox pumped up to - so I flipped the stem, but may move that back down soon as the I felt solid in the front end handling. It's a long wheelbase vehicle - feels stable yet didn't notice any problems with agility, but I wasn't on single track - which I suck on anyway ; )

I have a pre-disc Ibis Hakkalugi which I can fit 38's on, and I ride this bike everywhere, but the new gravel build will be great for the semi-rougher stuff. It's going to get a lot of miles as long as I can continue with my recovery.

Pretty happy guy right now. I don't know if I would change anything on it. Can't help but want to see drops on it, but in reality, I think I would still end up goin back to the flat bar as I have such nice control and more confidence on the descents in dirt than I would on a drop bar - and I feel with the little in-bar nubs I have a comfortable, more aero position to ride the flats, etc.
Dale

Posts:1767

--
12/05/2020 01:25 PM
...oops. Wrong thread, ignore this
huckleberry

Posts:824

--
12/12/2020 06:29 PM
Great fun in the snow today!

3" and it gets a bit squirrely on 43's.

And it's too bad it melts at the bottom of the descent - flippin' freezin, with a frozen taint that hasn't forgiven me.

Any recommendations for front and rear fenders?
Orange Crush

Posts:4499

--
12/12/2020 07:10 PM
I got SKS longboards 45 mm version w 38 mm tires on Diverge. There is also a 50 mm version for wider tires. These are full wraparound good for staying dry on road riding. Maybe not suitable for a gravel rig.
huckleberry

Posts:824

--
12/12/2020 10:37 PM
OC -

Gracias. Been looking at those.

What kind of gloves do you like below 35 degrees(f)?
Orange Crush

Posts:4499

--
12/12/2020 10:58 PM
35 is mighty warm once you cross the 49th. Hydration and sunscreen becomes more important than gloves.

Kidding aside I don’t have any cycling specific winter gloves. I just double purpose my ski gloves for different cold conditions. Most of them are black diamond brand. With rare exception I mostly just ride above freezing, today would have been about 35F. Mid level ski gloves .
huckleberry

Posts:824

--
12/13/2020 10:14 AM
I lived and skate skied in the U.S. Okanogan for years - temps in the teens(f) and 20's, but could never find a glove that kept my fingers from hurting - even with the rest of my body relatively comfortable.

Was fine ascending in DeFeet wool gloves, but got wet on the way down as I hit slush and spraying mud. Have also ridden with double gloves(one set waterproof) and still got cold once I stopped working hard.
Orange Crush

Posts:4499

--
12/13/2020 11:12 AM
I have a pair of wind proof water resistant lobster gloves for when it gets really cold skiing. Don’t think I ever needed them riding. I mostly just get cold hands or feet downhill skiing. Cross country skiing and cycling is enough to keep extremities toasty. This may mostly just be a function of a toque to keep head warm and fancy thermal upper body layer. This will allow your body to keep extremities warm. On rides I am typically the first to ditch gloves altogether. The other week when we rode through frozen streams and feet got solidly wet the cold feeling lasted 10 mins while socks were fully soaked. Once drained Wool socks kicked back in after for rest of ride. It was cold enough for there to be a bit of frost in water bottles.
longslowdistance

Posts:2881

--
12/13/2020 08:08 PM
Just an observation that warm hands and feet when younger and middle aged may become cold hands and/or feet when older.
Definition of middle age: your age plus 10


---
Active Forums 4.1
NOT LICENSED FOR PRODUCTION USE
www.activemodules.com