September 19, 2018 Login  

pinging photographers
Last Post 09/10/2013 08:29 PM by Spudly Crumpett III. 5 Replies.
Printer Friendly
PrevPrev NextNext
You are not authorized to post a reply.
Author Messages


09/05/2013 10:36 AM
Looking at purchasing a variable ND filter for my Canon EOS 60D. Any suggestions as to what to stay away from? Leaning toward a Tiffen.



09/05/2013 01:32 PM
You've likely already seen B and H's offerings and customer reviews|1&N=0&srtclk=sort&Ntt=variable+neutral+density+%28nd%29+filters

Tiffen only has 3 reviews, all good.

Thinner is better regarding vignetting (as with any filter), probably only a potential issue with EF S lenses with the APS-C sensor in the 60D.
The Short White Guy™


09/10/2013 08:08 AM
Why a ND filter? At this point with digital, there really is no need for filters - ND/polarizer/UV/red are used with film. You can do the same thing with by bracketing your exposure's and layering in Photoshop.


09/10/2013 10:30 AM
Started experimenting with long exposure shots. This filter was suggested for long exposures during day light.
The Short White Guy™


09/10/2013 06:00 PM
My professional opinion would be to utilize functions built into the camera, some experimentation and Photoshop. Here are some tips:

1. Set exposure increments to 1/3 in the CF mode (not sure which #).
2. Shoot RAW + Large JPEG. ALWAYS work with RAW files in Photoshop!
3. Set ISO to L or 100 and f-stop at f8 or f11. If this is for landscape, you don't need to go above or below those f-stops.
4. Set mode to AV.
5. Set AEB to either +/- 2 or +/-3. If the 60D allows you to go to +/-4 try that. *
6. Let the camera meter for entire scene.
7. If you are above 5 sec exposures, use mirror lock-up feature.
8. Always use a tripod when attempting long/multiple exposures of a scene.
9. Use a shutter trigger. You can use the self-timer feature (set to 2 or 10 second delay). I use a remote shutter trigger.

* You can manually bracket your exposures. Example - If scene yields 1/15 @ f8 (L ISO), your next exposures will be 1/60 @ f8 and 1/250 @ f8 to the + side, while the - side will be 1/4 @ f8 and 1 second @ f8.

In Photoshop you will work with the RAW files and either layer all images to make one image or you can use the Automate > Merge to HDR Pro... feature. I wasn't a fan of HDR until recently (my training and education is old school), but once I saw the results I concluded that it is a tool that is no different than a master like Ansel Adams used in the film days when he went back to his darkroom to dodge and burn the sky or clouds.


09/10/2013 08:29 PM
Thank you for this information. Really appreciate it. Here is my first attempt. This was shot in the AV mode.

You are not authorized to post a reply.

Active Forums 4.1

Latest Forum Posts

Moving cross-country, bike help posted in Gear Advice

Confessions of a Retro Grouch posted in Gear Advice

I'm getting psyched! posted in The Coffee Shop

Vuelta 2018 posted in Professional Racing

No articles match criteria.
  Terms and Conditions | Privacy Policy  Copyright 2008-2013 by VeloNation LLC