June 18, 2018 Login  

pinging photographers
Last Post 09/10/2013 08:29 PM by Spudly Crumpett III. 5 Replies.
Printer Friendly
PrevPrev NextNext
You are not authorized to post a reply.
Author Messages


09/05/2013 10:36 AM
Looking at purchasing a variable ND filter for my Canon EOS 60D. Any suggestions as to what to stay away from? Leaning toward a Tiffen.



09/05/2013 01:32 PM
You've likely already seen B and H's offerings and customer reviews http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?sts=ta&Ns=p_OVER_ALL_RATE|1&N=0&srtclk=sort&Ntt=variable+neutral+density+%28nd%29+filters

Tiffen only has 3 reviews, all good.

Thinner is better regarding vignetting (as with any filter), probably only a potential issue with EF S lenses with the APS-C sensor in the 60D.
The Short White Guy™


09/10/2013 08:08 AM
Why a ND filter? At this point with digital, there really is no need for filters - ND/polarizer/UV/red are used with film. You can do the same thing with by bracketing your exposure's and layering in Photoshop.


09/10/2013 10:30 AM
Started experimenting with long exposure shots. This filter was suggested for long exposures during day light.
The Short White Guy™


09/10/2013 06:00 PM
My professional opinion would be to utilize functions built into the camera, some experimentation and Photoshop. Here are some tips:

1. Set exposure increments to 1/3 in the CF mode (not sure which #).
2. Shoot RAW + Large JPEG. ALWAYS work with RAW files in Photoshop!
3. Set ISO to L or 100 and f-stop at f8 or f11. If this is for landscape, you don't need to go above or below those f-stops.
4. Set mode to AV.
5. Set AEB to either +/- 2 or +/-3. If the 60D allows you to go to +/-4 try that. *
6. Let the camera meter for entire scene.
7. If you are above 5 sec exposures, use mirror lock-up feature.
8. Always use a tripod when attempting long/multiple exposures of a scene.
9. Use a shutter trigger. You can use the self-timer feature (set to 2 or 10 second delay). I use a remote shutter trigger.

* You can manually bracket your exposures. Example - If scene yields 1/15 @ f8 (L ISO), your next exposures will be 1/60 @ f8 and 1/250 @ f8 to the + side, while the - side will be 1/4 @ f8 and 1 second @ f8.

In Photoshop you will work with the RAW files and either layer all images to make one image or you can use the Automate > Merge to HDR Pro... feature. I wasn't a fan of HDR until recently (my training and education is old school), but once I saw the results I concluded that it is a tool that is no different than a master like Ansel Adams used in the film days when he went back to his darkroom to dodge and burn the sky or clouds.


09/10/2013 08:29 PM
Thank you for this information. Really appreciate it. Here is my first attempt. This was shot in the AV mode.

You are not authorized to post a reply.

Active Forums 4.1

Latest Forum Posts
World Cup talk posted in The Coffee Shop

That was fast! (and precedent?) posted in The Dark Side

New one on me release? posted in Gear Advice

Dauphine posted in Professional Racing

What timing! (Aerobars) posted in Road Cycling

No articles match criteria.
  Terms and Conditions | Privacy Policy  Copyright 2008-2013 by VeloNation LLC