August 17, 2018 Login  


Inside leg rubbing seat cluster on new bike
Last Post 06/18/2018 04:16 PM by 79 pmooney. 14 Replies.
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6ix

Posts:244

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05/28/2018 12:37 PM
After riding a 58cm Scott Foil for the last 4 years, I switched over to a new 56cm Emonda SL in order to reduce my reach a bit.  This became apparent after I had a fitting a few weeks ago. 

Picked it up and put it on the trainer to get everything perfectly dialed in only to find out that my inside leg slightly grazes the top-tube just ahead of the seat-tube.  Every single pedal stroke.  It's 18mm wider than on the Scott since the seat-stays wrap around the seat-tube rather than terminating at the back of the seat-tube.  This results in a really wide seat cluster.  Even though I have my fit correct, I tried adjusting my cleats in hopes of angling my knees out (and who knows what that would do later down the road) and moved the seat forward too.  Still rubs.

Cycling is expensive enough but I just wasted a few grand. 
Orange Crush

Posts:2208

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05/28/2018 01:20 PM
I get that as well, not routinely though. For me it doesn't seem to be bike specific, more fatigue related. Don't even notice it during ride (for most part anyway) but I'll look at the knee area next day and inside is bruised (typically left leg). No way I am adjusting bike fit for it, cleats and everything else are well dialed in for comfort. Its simply a function of my x-legs I think (my dad always ribs me that as a kid soccer player I'd trip over my own legs). Polar opposite of Pozzovivio, man seeing him ride with those o-legs and knees pointed way out is so funny. BTW - rode a Trek Edmonda w/ Ultegra setup for Haute Route Alps in 2015. Sweet setup. Better than any bike I own.
6ix

Posts:244

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05/28/2018 01:29 PM
I know my knees bend inwards while my toes point outwards so I've angled my cleats in order to keep things in line. It's worked for years. Middle of the top-tube is actually 2mm narrower than on my Foil but it's nearly a whopping 60mm wide in front of the seat-tube. That's the problem. It's not like I have blubbery or overly muscular legs either. Knees aren't hitting the top-tube but my thighs rub on it on EVERY SINGLE STROKE. Imagine how annoying that is. Since I was concerned about my knees, I even measured an Emonda they had on the floor to make sure the top-tube would be narrow enough, but it didn't occur to me that the seat cluster would be nearly an inch wider. It's insane.
Orange Crush

Posts:2208

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05/28/2018 04:19 PM
Ah. I misread that. Yes, that is highly annoying and poor design; not sure there's anything to be done about that. Small tolerances in that area, I actually killed a couple shorts because they were rubbing against the velcro of the mini-saddle bag that wasn't wrapped completely snug around seat post.
zootracer

Posts:613

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05/28/2018 11:19 PM
Maybe switching to a pedal with more q-factor (?) I dunno. I have a 2014 Trek Madone 5.9, probably a similar frame to the Domane. I was riding a 2007 Trek Madone 5.9, My second bike is a Colnago Master, I've never had problems with my leg making contact with the top tube on any of my bikes. Might consider a wider saddle (?). Maybe jacking up your saddle height a couple of mm's (?) I was using Look Keo Blade 2 pedals, they have a wide q-factor. I stopped using them as I had problems clipping in after using Shimano pedals for so many years. Have you ridden this bike on the road or just your trainer? My position is a lot different when I am riding on the road...I was fitted on a trainer and the fitter had a weird set up and I went back to my usual position.
6ix

Posts:244

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05/29/2018 06:37 AM
Zoot - all good suggestions and I'm guessing the bike shop will be wanting to try those. I'd been dealing with foot pain and constant saddle sores for a few years up until recently, so have finally found the magic saddle and shoes that work for me without any problem. I don't want to switch up one thing that currently works after much experimentation just to fit on a frame. It wasn't special order so I don't see any reason why I shouldn't be able to just return it. I will find out this afternoon.
Orange Crush

Posts:2208

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05/29/2018 08:25 AM
Riding my commuter and looking at setup I had similar thoughts to zoot. Creating a wider stance (Sounds like q factor does that) and or one size smaller frame with taller seatpost (ie leaving fit as is).
Cosmic Kid

Posts:2402

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05/29/2018 08:42 AM
What pedals are you running, 6ix?
Just say "NO!" to WCP!!!!
6ix

Posts:244

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05/29/2018 09:07 AM
SPD-SL. As an experiment, I tried both angling my cleats more and moving them all the way to the outward-most position with no difference. Tried moving the saddle forward and back.

But again, I bought the frame in order to reduce my overall reach so went down a size. Now I have some toe overlap so definitely can't go any smaller. It's just a big mess and I want my old bike back!! I'll revisit this whole thing again at a later date.
Cosmic Kid

Posts:2402

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05/29/2018 09:14 AM
Hmmmm....not a lot of alteral movemnet options for Shimano pedals. Fore / aft, yes. Lateral, no.

Was hoping you had Speedplay because you can move the cleats out a fair amount, which might get you the clearance you need.

I just went back to Speedplays after 5 years on Shimano pedals.....very happy i did. I was an original adpater of Speedplay back in '92 and had ridden them since Day One. IN 2013, I was fight ITBS and thought the lack of resistacne to the rotation in Speedplays could have been an aggravating factor. (plus I had knocked my shoes off my bike a couple times doing a flying start w/ Speedplays).

Last week, i fumbled a pedal entry (again) and ended up with a HUGE welt / bump on my shin. Immediately went back to Speedplay and couldn't be happier.
Just say "NO!" to WCP!!!!
huckleberry

Posts:522

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05/29/2018 09:59 AM
Your "inside leg" huh?

No need to brag.
6ix

Posts:244

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05/29/2018 10:59 AM
Poor choice of words!! I tried Speedplays way back in the late 90's and didn't much care for the pedaling-on-ice feel of so much float. I know they've fixed that with the Zero platform but again, I'm very reluctant to modify anything with my saddle or shoes at this point. I've found what works. No foot, saddle or knee pain. That's infinitely more important to me than fitting on this particular frame.
Nick A

Posts:552

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06/17/2018 07:58 PM
I'm very duck-footed, and need to put my feet way outboard so I don't hit my ankles. I use these. (Will try link below, might need to cut and paste.) Not good if you're a weight weenie (although there's a titanium version), but super simple concept, and they work. Now with some pedals now ONLY allowing installation with a hex/allen wrench, these don't work. Although, if you're a little adventurous, you can grind down two flat spots on opposite sides of the exposed axle, and it'll work with a pedal wrench just like the old days. (I've done this with some Looks, now I use Speedplays.)

http://www.kneesaver.net/

Nick

79pmooney

Posts:1926

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06/18/2018 03:56 PM
I'd take the bike back. Too much mney to be spending for a bike that only works on a trainer. This is a design issue. The shop should be talking to Trek about this and not be stuck with your bike.

I was sorts thinking along zoot's line, except my thought process was more like "Trek is upsizing their top tubes to be consistent with the change to bigger Q-factors. Riders just need wider hips. With those wider hips, both the ever increasing Q-factors and those top tubes work just fine.

This is a time of an aging US population. When you get your hip replacement, ask the surgeon for one size wider.

Ben
79pmooney

Posts:1926

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06/18/2018 04:16 PM
And along those lines - went for a ride on my best bike, my geared Ti Cycles yesterday. For the fun of it, I looked down at the chain - crank clearance of my 105 crank in high gear. ~1/4" Why? All it has to do it miss. 2 mm is plenty. (Campy 9-speed cassette and hub, 130 spacing, 53t front triple, 12t cog.) I think i have a Shimano Octalink BB. haven't measured but I am guessing it is close to symmetrical.

One of these days, I am going to look for the 110, 74 BCD triple crankset with the right arm as close as possible to the chain with the proper chainline, then get the narrowest Phil BB so the left arm almost nicks the chainstay. (Yes, not so cheap. But everything related to knees cost a lot more.)

Ben
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