November 17, 2018 Login  


Internal cable routing
Last Post 10/27/2018 06:27 PM by Frederick Jones. 7 Replies.
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zootracer

Posts:623

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10/25/2018 11:42 AM
My Trek Madone has internal cable routing. On a ride last week early on, I could not shift to the big ring. Discovered I had broken the shift cable for the front derailleur (bike is almost two years old). I was close to home, went back and dug through my tool box looking for Shimano shift cables, could not find any, swore I had bought some I swapped out bikes,and went back out. Took the Madone down to my LBS after I got home, I thought they could just do it while I waited. They were busy said I would have to leave it. Said it was a pain to install internal shift cables. It was ready next morning right after they opened. I have broken shift cables once and awhile on my old Colnago Master, no big thing. I know internal routing looks cool, but no idea it was such a pain to install new cables. I'm kinda used to doing most of my own maintenance on my bikes. This is a downer.
Cosmic Kid

Posts:2448

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10/26/2018 09:21 AM
A lot depends on the level of "integration." If you are just running regular HB and then only running the cables through the frame, it isn't too much of a hassle to deal with. BIggest challenge is getting the cabale back out of the exit port.....I solved that issue by cutting off a piece of coat hanger, putting a hook on one end and then putting the hanger up through the exit port...twirl it as you pull it back out and you can grab the cable pretty easily. Once you have the cable out, running the housing is pretty simple.

If you are using carbon bars with internal routing, it becomes a little more complex.....you can use the same method as above, but there are tighter fittings and bends...and then you still have to repeat for the fram routing.

If you are dealing with one of the more recent, fully integrated designs (ala the Madone, Specialized Venge Vias, etc) then it is a complete PITA. Making it even worse is if you are running disc brakes because then you have to cut the housing, rejoin everything and then bleed the system to get it functioning again.
Just say "NO!" to WCP!!!!
zootracer

Posts:623

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10/26/2018 08:23 PM
CK, yeah my Madone is fully integrated (aero). No disc brakes. I'll probably have my LBS change out the cables yearly. Another downer is my vision is shot and I can't see a damn thing in my garage...
longslowdistance

Posts:1695

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10/26/2018 08:58 PM
Dumbass question:
I'm mainly riding a Ti do it all Salsa Fargo now and like it a lot. The logical choice is stay with it. But I'm thinking about a new ride, not because I need one, but just 'cause new and shiny appeals.
Lots of gravel. Ti plus suspension fork is working for me. CF is common now. CF plus suspension fork (remember geezer here) or CF plus CF fork? Seems like internal routing is common now. Should I avoid it at all costs, or get on the band wagon?
I will want a 2x11 or 2x10, as my old knees need better range than a 1x.

Thanks for the feedback.
Cosmic Kid

Posts:2448

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10/26/2018 09:07 PM
@zoot....it isn’t necessarily hard to do the cables yourself, just more time consuming. I hear ya about the vision thing....tweeted earlier this year that I now wear reading glasses instead of sunglasses when working outside on my bike!

@lsd - if you go carbon, your choice will likely be made for you as almsot all carbon bikes are internal. What about just going eTap? Wireless and no cables. The you just have to worry about brake cables (or brake lines if you go hydro).
Just say "NO!" to WCP!!!!
eurochien

Posts:51

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10/26/2018 11:04 PM
Zoot, you can ask your lbs for liners or purchase a derailleur cable+housing set that has those liners (they're either red or black in my experience). For example for a front derailleur cable swap, you unscrew the cable at the derailleur, but you don't pull it out completely at the lever end, you leave enough cable at the bottom bracket exit to slide the liner over it all the way up so that it comes out from both ends of the down tube. Then you pull the cable completely out and route the new cable in, pull the liner out.
zootracer

Posts:623

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10/27/2018 12:29 AM
thanks all for the advice...LSD talking about carbon. Back in August I was climbing a small hill in the big ring, getting ready to make a u-turn. I shifted to the small ring and the hanger for the rear derailler broke and it pulled the entire derailleur into the right seat stay taking out a big chunk. My LBS said the frame was toast and Trek would warranty it with a used frame for the cost of a new one. The head wrench said he could repair it for me for $180 at his house (private job). I had faith in him as he always did good work so it was done. He was busy as the owner was out on an illness, took about almost three weeks before I got it back and he only charged me $100.00, but I gave him $160 . Bike is as good as new, but I would be hesitant about buying another carbon bike. My old steel Colnago is almost bullet proof, just a little bit heavier. Carbon is nice, but you never know....if I was to consider another bike right now I would consider ti. PS-my Colnago Master has a carbon fork, 16 years old and never a problem...
longslowdistance

Posts:1695

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10/27/2018 06:27 PM
CK good point! And I like the combo of mtb drivetrain with road shifters on my do it all bike, so that would put shimano in play, too.
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